Entries in counters (4)
I saw your blog and thought I would send in my question:
I am having a kitchen renovation working with a kitchen designer. She didn't mention that my 11' 2" span would be too long for a seamless granite top when we started.
We have already paid for and installed the Uba Tuba on the island but for the 11' 2'' periphery we will be limited by the size of slabs available. She suggested using absolute black on the periphery (our periphery cabinets are bronze cherry and the island is soft white with a bronze glaze- the island will remain uba tuba granite). The other option is to have the uba tuba installed on the periphery as well with one seam. I am so afraid of the seam but I don't know about using absolute black and uba tuba since the cabinets are different colors too. I don't want it to look like a kitchen display room. Our floors are travertine and the walls are a muted gold. The hardware is ORB.
These are pics of a house I just bought. We are wanting to update the kitchen. Here is what I'm thinking......the cabinets against the wall.....ok, put the stove where the sink is....the fridge where the stove is.
I love the idea of putting the stove where the sink is. As I have said before, ideally the hood of the stove is the focal point of the kitchen. When it is on the “end” like it is in your kitchen, that doesn’t work so well. I would center it on that wall. I would NOT put the fridge over there - if you do - you just ruined your pretty wall that we just created. The object of kitchen design is to be not only beautiful but as functional as possible in the given space. This is done with a good working triangle. If you had your kitchen on graph paper (which you should do)- and you draw lines from your stove to your refrigerator to your sink, the more equilateral the triangle is, the better function of the room. It looks to me right now that your triangle stinks. I think you have to jump over the island to really have a triangle. Keep in mind that the lines of the triangle are meant to be traffic lines. Move your refrigerator down, keeping it on the same wall, but having it at the other end of that wall. Put your sink in the island- across from the stove. Notice how many of the kitchens in this post have the sink directly across from the stove. In my opinion that is ideal- and if you can do it- you should do it.
Your peninsula idea should increase cabinet space. The reason I like islands is because they can be made from different fun materials. So - your choice - fun or function.
With hardwood floors - I really prefer painted cabinets. I love a nice white cabinet with wood floors….
I'm not sure what kind of hardware to use. I'd like a polished nickel, but would that be too matchy with the updated stainless that we will replace mismatched appliances with?
How about black?
Also, what kind of lighting? I like the schoolhouse pendant lighting, but again I don't want it to look too matchy matchy, if you know what I mean.
You would not go wrong with a classic schoolhouse pendant.
How about brick set white? What about your counters? I would do a honed black granite.
Bring in pattern and softness on your window treatments with Roman Shades.
oh, the wallpaper has also been taken down.
I would also remove the soffit if you can and increase the height of the cabinets. Your kitchen also needs more light - add about nine can lights and under cabinet lighting - in addition to your pendants.
Other option: off white cabinets, subway tile backsplash, stainless appliances, khaki-ish color granite countertops, polished nickel hardware, schoolhouse pendant lighting (in polished nickel?) built in cabinets....should it be a dark wood? What about the kitchen table and chairs? Window treatments?
Finish your kitchen- let's see what you choose then write me back about your table and chairs…
I realize this email is probably all over the place.....that is where my mind is though. I'm completely overwhelmed.
I just found your blog and I hope you can give me some insight.
Hey- it will be fabulous! Send in some after pictures!
The kitchen cabinets are in, and Terry and Jerry have put plywood countertops on
them to give us an idea of how they’ll look. We’re still making final decisions
about countertop materials, and since we have a lot of countertop area to cover,
we’re looking for ones that won’t be prohibitively expensive. I’m thinking of
concrete (no color; just naked [but sealed]), butcher’s block, and/or marble,
but not fancy schmancy marble. And maybe galvanized steel. Don’t laugh; we have
it at our farm, and it’s cheap and rather charming.
What counter top
materials am I missing? What’s cool and hip and not typical
- Concrete is not terribly inexpensive, averaging over $100/ square foot where I live. Unless, perhaps, you have a special source. Great look- I would love it in your place.
- Butcher block- No- too much "wood."
- Marble... I love the look of marble. At the firm that I worked for down in LA- we were not ALLOWED to use marble in the kitchen because it is too porous. So- great look- LOVE the look- but beware- it would be a shame if it were to stain. I would love a honed limestone... But again- not the most practical of surfaces.
- Galvanized steel? Interesting. I have not seen it done- but it sounds cool.
1. I liked your concrete idea- it is a great look.
2. Slate: Used for centuries to create stylish weather resistant roofs, slate's natural beauty and strength are finding their way into the kitchen. Befitting of a roofing material, slate is durable, hard and fireproof. Luckily, it's beautiful, too, making it a prime choice for homeowners seeking a counter top that will make a statement. Its low absorption rate keeps stains at bay, though you may want to seal regularly to add a further dose of protection.
Soapstone: (picture above) Often referred to as "the original stone counter top," early settlers in New England relied on the durable material for their own counter tops. Far from a high-maintenance top, soapstone's inert nature means acids won't etch the material, and stains can be rubbed out. Mineral oil treatment will bring out a darker, richer color. Make a powerful statement by combining with a soapstone sink.
Quick tip: As you investigate your natural stone options, consider functionality first, then this: do you want a stone that will look brand new 10 years from now, or one that will take on the patina of age? Let your answer help guide your choice.
To clean: Stone is a natural product, and cleaning is fairly simple, though be sure to follow specific instructions for your stone. Monticello Granite, the first nationally available counter top company, recommends that stone surfaces be cleaned with a few drops of a neutral cleaner, stone soap or mild liquid dish washing detergent. Always avoid products containing abrasives, lemon, vinegar or other acids, as well as scouring pads.
Also- consider re-cycled glass- Made of 85% recycled glass- this is "in" because it is "earth-friendly" :). This is also more of an option for a place like P Dub's- because it lends itself to be that juxtaposition of shininess in a rustic interior, whereas true glass is just too modern.
Paper-base- Say sayonara to stone. Richlite’s paper-based countertops provide a durable-as-stone and heat and stain-resistant surface that's more than just a unique countertop alternative. Used in commercial kitchens for years, Richlite is available in six colors including sage, slate black and nutmeg. Using only sustainable materials, Richlite is the first company to offer hemp-based countertops, which are both heat and stain-resistant. Cost: $65-$75.
Personally, I think in a kitchen like the one you are doing, I would do a counter that is not the focal point- something with a dull surface- a simple color- The focal point of the kitchen should be the hood... which I will discuss next time :)
So- anyway... call me :)- we'll do lunch!